The women’s size S theoretically corresponds to the French 38, but this equivalence masks very different cutting realities depending on the markets, brands, and grading methods used. We have observed an increasing gap over several seasons between what the labels display and the actual measurements of consumers.
Grading and pattern making: why size S varies from brand to brand
Size S is not an absolute measurement. It is the result of a grading process from a base size, often a 36 or even a 34, on which the pattern maker builds the entire size curve. Each brand defines its own increments between two sizes (in bust, waist, hip measurements), which explains why an S from a Scandinavian brand is nothing like an S from an Italian or Japanese brand.
Collections are still predominantly modeled on templates close to the French 34-36. The upward grading (M, L, XL) mechanically amplifies the differences in cut, especially at the armholes and bust length. A size S garment designed from a base 34 will be more fitted than an S graded from a 36.
This lack of standardization between brands makes any table of women’s size S equivalences necessarily approximate. We recommend always cross-referencing the displayed letter with the measurements in centimeters indicated in the size guide specific to each brand.
Women’s size S equivalence: France, Europe, United States, United Kingdom
Size systems are based on distinct national conventions. Here are the most common equivalences for women’s size S:
| System | Size S Equivalence |
|---|---|
| France | 38 |
| Europe (DE, ES, NL) | 36 |
| Italy | 42 |
| United States (US) | 6 |
| United Kingdom (UK) | 10 |
| Japan | 9 |
The gap between French size and Italian size is four points: a 38 FR corresponds to a 42 IT. This peculiarity regularly traps online shoppers on Italian sites, who see a “42” and think they are ordering an L when it is indeed an S.
On the American side, the even numbering (2, 4, 6, 8) follows no metric logic. A US 6 is close to the French 38, but American brands often size larger than their European counterparts, a phenomenon known as vanity sizing.
Reference measurements for a women’s S: the numbers to check
Rather than relying on the letter on the label, taking your measurements remains the most reliable method. The three determining measurements are:
- Bust circumference: measured at the fullest point, arms by the sides, without compression
- Waist circumference: taken at the natural waist, between the lower ribs and the top of the hips
- Hip circumference: measured at the widest part of the hips, encompassing the buttocks
For most French and European brands, a women’s S corresponds to a bust measurement of around 84-87 cm, a waist measurement close to 64-67 cm, and a hip measurement near 90-93 cm. These ranges vary by brand, sometimes by several centimeters.
The common pitfall: measuring over clothing or not positioning the measuring tape horizontally. A two-centimeter difference is enough to switch between an S and an M.
Size S and actual body shape: an increasing gap in France
Conversion guides continue to equate S with the French 38 as a nearly universal standard. The reality of the market tells a different story. The average body shape of women in France has significantly diverged from this reference, and bodies between sizes 40 and 46 have long been ignored by brands.
The majority of collections are still patterned on sizes 32-36, then graded upwards. Size S remains a modeling size, close to that of workshop models, rather than a faithful reflection of the average body shape of French consumers.
This gap has practical consequences: a customer who usually wears a 38 in French ready-to-wear may find herself squeezed into an S at certain Asian fast fashion brands, or swimming in an S at Nordic brands with looser cuts. The letter S does not guarantee the same comfort or fit from one brand to another.
Shopping online internationally: a method to avoid mistakes
The reflex to convert a size S into its local numeric equivalent is not enough. Here’s what we systematically recommend:
- Consult the size guide of the retailer’s website and compare your measurements in centimeters to the ranges indicated, not to the letters
- Check the size of the model in the product photos: most sites indicate her size and the size worn, providing a concrete visual reference
- Read customer reviews mentioning “sizes large” or “sizes small,” reliable indicators of the brand’s cutting bias
- Prefer sites offering free returns for first orders in a new country or with a new brand
Vanity sizing further complicates the reading: some American brands label S a garment whose measurements correspond to an M in Europe. The commercial objective is clear (to flatter the customer), but the practical result is widespread confusion about sizes.
One last often-overlooked point: the fabric composition alters the perception of size. An S in jersey with elastane allows for a few centimeters of leeway, whereas an S in rigid cotton poplin leaves no margin. Cross-referencing the material and the measurements in the guide remains the only truly reliable approach before finalizing an international order.